Athens’s colourful, free changing-of-the-guard ceremony at Syntagma Square is performed hourly by the Evzones, the elite presidential guards in their kilted foustanella uniforms, with a grand parade every Sunday morning. See it and the city’s highlights with guided tours from My Greece Tours for a richer visit.
The changing of the guard is a must-see free spectacle in the Athens travel guide. The sections below cover the Evzones, the schedule, the uniforms and tips in full.
What is the Syntagma Square changing of the guard?
This colourful ceremony is the formal handover of the Evzones, the elite guards who stand watch at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier before the Greek Parliament in Athens. Performed every hour in their distinctive kilted uniforms, with a grand parade on Sunday mornings, it is a colourful, free and unmissable spectacle.
This hourly ceremony at Syntagma Square is one of the most popular and memorable free experiences in Athens, a colourful piece of living tradition in the heart of the city. Syntagma, meaning Constitution, is the central square of Athens, fronted by the imposing Hellenic Parliament building, the former royal palace. In front of Parliament stands the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a memorial to Greeks who died for their country, and it is guarded around the clock by the Evzones, an elite ceremonial unit of the Greek army, also known as the Presidential Guard. Every hour, on the hour, a carefully choreographed ceremony takes place as the Evzones on duty are relieved by their replacements in a slow, precise, almost balletic routine, instantly recognisable for the guards’ striking traditional uniforms and exaggerated, deliberate movements. On Sunday mornings, a far grander version, the Grand Change, sees the entire company parade with a military band. Free to watch and full of pageantry, it is a highlight for visitors, set out alongside the guide to things to do in Athens. The Evzones themselves are remarkable.
Who are the Evzones?
An elite ceremonial unit of the Greek army, the Evzones form the Presidential Guard, famous for guarding the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier as well as the nearby Presidential Mansion. Instantly recognisable in their kilted foustanella uniforms, they are selected for exceptional discipline, height (around 1.9 metres) and endurance, and undergo demanding training to perform their slow, statue-still ceremonial duties.
The Evzones are the proud, elite soldiers at the heart of the changing of the guard, and they are as impressive as the ceremony itself. They form the Presidential Guard, a special ceremonial unit of the Hellenic Army whose primary duties are watching over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at Syntagma and the Presidential Mansion nearby. Becoming an Evzone is a great honour and extremely demanding: candidates are selected for their exceptional discipline, physical endurance and bearing, typically standing around 1.9 metres tall, and they undergo a rigorous month-long training to master the unit’s precise, slow-motion movements and the ability to stand utterly still, like statues, for long periods in all weathers. While on guard, they remain motionless and silent regardless of heat, cold or the crowds and cameras around them, a feat of remarkable self-control. The Evzones embody Greek military tradition and national pride, and their distinctive uniform connects directly to the country’s history and struggle for independence. Watching these elite guards is a moving experience, set out alongside the guide to Greek history and mythology sites. Their uniforms are full of meaning.
What do the Evzones’ uniforms mean?
The Evzones wear the foustanella, a pleated white kilt with exactly 400 folds, symbolising the 400 years of Ottoman rule over Greece. Their red caps, embroidered waistcoats and leather clogs (tsarouhia), each with 60 nails and a large pom-pom, complete the uniform. Every element carries historical and patriotic significance rooted in Greece’s struggle for independence.
The Evzones’ striking uniforms are not mere costume but are rich with historical and patriotic symbolism that adds great meaning to the spectacle. The most famous element is the foustanella, the pleated white kilt or skirt; in the formal version, it is said to have exactly 400 pleats, each one symbolising a year of the roughly 400 years that Greece spent under Ottoman rule before winning independence, a poignant tribute woven into the cloth. The guards wear a red cap, the farion, with a long black tassel, and an elaborately embroidered waistcoat, the fermeli, decorated with patriotic and folk motifs. On their feet are the tsarouhia, distinctive red leather clogs with upturned toes topped by a large black pom-pom, and each clog’s sole is studded with around 60 iron nails, which produce the resonant, ringing sound as the guards stamp and slide through their movements. On Sundays and formal occasions the Evzones wear the full white ceremonial dress, while on other days they wear seasonal versions in different colours. Knowing the meaning behind every detail deepens the experience of watching them, set out alongside the guide to Greek history. Knowing the schedule helps you see it.
When is the Syntagma changing of the guard?
At Syntagma, the ceremony happens every hour, on the hour, throughout the year, regardless of weather. The grand ceremony, the Grand Change, happens every Sunday at 11am, when the full company of Evzones parades to the square with a military band from around 10:20am, in their formal white uniforms. The hourly changes are shorter.
Knowing the timing lets you plan to catch this memorable spectacle. The basic ceremony happens every hour, on the hour, around the clock, all year round and in all weather conditions, as the two Evzones on duty at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier are relieved by their replacements in a short, several-minute ceremony of slow, synchronised movements; you can simply turn up near the top of any hour to see it. The real highlight, however, is the Grand Change, held every Sunday morning at 11am, when the entire company of Evzones, in their full formal white ceremonial dress, parades through the streets to Syntagma Square accompanied by a military band, setting off from their barracks at around 10:20am and marching in perfect coordination, before performing an elaborate, extended version of the ceremony. This Sunday spectacle is far grander and well worth timing your visit around. To get a good view, arrive a little early, especially for the popular Sunday ceremony, to secure a spot near the front. The free, dependable schedule makes it easy to fit in, set out alongside the guide to a first-timer’s itinerary. A few tips help your visit.
What tips help for watching the changing of the guard?
Arrive 10 to 15 minutes early, especially for the grand Sunday 11am ceremony, to get a good spot near the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Be respectful, keep clear of the guards and follow the supervising soldier’s directions, do not touch or mock the Evzones, and combine the visit with Syntagma Square, the National Garden and nearby sights.
A few simple tips ensure you enjoy the changing of the guard and watch it respectfully. To get a good view, arrive around 10 to 15 minutes before the hour, and earlier still for the grand Sunday ceremony at 11am, which draws the biggest crowds, positioning yourself near the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier before Parliament at the top of Syntagma Square. The ceremony is a solemn military and national occasion, so be respectful: keep clear of the guards’ path, do not cross the marked areas, and follow the directions of the supervising officer who oversees the guards; you may pose for a photo beside an Evzone, but never touch, mock or try to make them react, as they must remain still and dignified. Bring a camera, as the colourful uniforms and precise movements are wonderfully photogenic. Since the ceremony happens every hour, it is easy to fit into your day, and Syntagma’s central location means you can combine it with a stroll through the square, the lovely National Garden behind Parliament, and nearby sights like the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Plaka. With these tips, it is a memorable, free highlight, set out alongside the guide to the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The questions below cover the points visitors ask most.
What else can you see around Syntagma Square?
Around Syntagma Square you can see the grand Hellenic Parliament in the former royal palace, the leafy National Garden behind it, the elegant Hotel Grande Bretagne, and the start of Ermou Street, the city’s main shopping street. The Temple of Olympian Zeus, Plaka and the Panathenaic Stadium are all a short walk away.
Syntagma Square is the central hub of modern Athens, so beyond the changing of the guard there is plenty to see and do in the immediate area, making it a natural part of any day. Dominating the square is the imposing Hellenic Parliament building, the former Royal Palace, a grand 19th-century neoclassical landmark, in front of which the Evzones guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Directly behind Parliament lies the National Garden, a large, shady oasis of trees, ponds, paths, a small zoo and a playground, perfect for a peaceful stroll or a break from the heat, leading on to the elegant Zappeion hall. The square itself is ringed by grand buildings, hotels and cafes, including the historic, luxurious Hotel Grande Bretagne, whose rooftop offers fine Acropolis views. From Syntagma runs Ermou Street, the city’s main pedestrian shopping street, lined with fashion stores and leading down towards Monastiraki. Nearby, within easy walking distance, are the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Arch of Hadrian, the charming Plaka quarter, and the marble Panathenaic Stadium. As the heart of the city and a major metro interchange, Syntagma is the perfect base for exploring, set out alongside the guides to the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Plaka. The questions below cover the points visitors ask most.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the changing of the guard in Athens?
In Athens, the changing of the guard is the formal handover of the Evzones, the elite presidential guards who watch over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier before the Greek Parliament at Syntagma Square. Performed hourly in their distinctive kilted uniforms, with a grand parade on Sunday mornings, it is a colourful, free spectacle.
What time is the Syntagma changing of the guard?
At Syntagma, the changing of the guard happens every hour, on the hour, throughout the year in all weather. The grand ceremony, the Grand Change, happens every Sunday at 11am, when the full company of Evzones parades to the square with a military band from around 10:20am in their formal white uniforms.
Why do the Evzones wear a kilt with 400 pleats?
The Evzones’ foustanella kilt has 400 pleats, each symbolising one of the roughly 400 years that Greece spent under Ottoman rule before winning independence. Every element of their uniform, from the pom-pommed, nail-studded tsarouhia clogs to the embroidered waistcoat, carries historical and patriotic meaning rooted in Greece’s struggle for freedom.